Open since April, Kin & Comfort is just starting to heat up. I predict that with food this excellent and prices so reasonable, it will be a full-fledged flaming volcanic uproar, hot enough that Satan himself will dine in once a week. There will be lines, people.
Located in the small food court inside the Hana World Market, it’s the most casual of dining experiences, with friendly counter ordering and fast table delivery. There’s no alcohol, nor can you buy some from the market and bring it into the food court. The experience is utilitarian, so there’s nothing to distract from the pure artistry of the food. And boy, is it incredible.
A group of friends and I have a monthly dinner series called the Asian Supper Club and we went to Kin & Comfort for our most recent event. We ordered freely, trying a large portion of the menu and sharing everything. The prices are so reasonable, I believe we averaged about $13 a person for all this. I suggest showing up with a group of four or six and just get everything.
One of my favorites was the Son in Law Deviled Eggs, which were tangy, crunchy, and creamy in one bite. The pork buns, pictured up top were the best I’ve ever tasted, as well as the messiest. The buns are stuffed with crispy, perfectly cooked pork belly, Asian pear, cilantro, onions and Thai basil.
Rich with cheddar, the Panang Mac & Cheese was topped with curry beef. The rice pasta keeps the dish from being too heavy. I really loved it, although it wasn’t a group favorite. Curry can also be found under crispy strips of catfish and a pickled cabbage salad. You might not expect a dish named “Catfish Fries” to come seated on a huge portion of rice, but it does. This is a filling dish and the crisp cabbage and fresh cilantro brighten each bite.
Now, beef tongue isn’t my favorite ingredient, but my dining companions are all big fans and ordered the Peppered Beef Tongue. Even I had to admit that it was tender and flavorful, complimented with raisins, broccoli, and broccoli slaw. Mr. Betty always makes a joke about the tongue “licking you back.” I’ll probably never love it.
The dish that reigned supreme, although it’s the least photogenic, is the Tom Kah Shrimp and Grits. What a knockout! As if the vibrant hot and sour coconut soup wasn’t enough (and it was) at the bottom of the bowl were the creamiest grits I’ve ever met. These grits are my soulmate. This was the dish that made our eyes roll back into our heads. It’s my favorite dish of 2014.
Perhaps the food most reminiscent of tradition and comfort (in America, at least) is meatloaf. Meatloaf is one of those meals you kind of love, kind of hate, and everyone’s mom makes it different. Kin & Comfort’s Thai Meatloaf and Gravy ain’t like your mama’s version. (Unless…is your mom Thai? Please invite me over for dinner.) The exotic meatloaf sat atop a mound of lush mashed potatoes; Pickled mushrooms and veggies round out the plate. If you only want to spend ten bucks and get a huge, satisfying meal, this is the dish to get. Really incredible.
On a return trip, Mr. Betty and I also tasted the Taro Hush Puppies and Home-Fried Chicken Thighs. I can vouch for their deliciousness as well, although I didn’t snap any photos the second time around. You’ll just have to trust me.
1700 Parmer Lane, Austin, TX 78727
Open Wed-Mon 11-8, closed Tuesdays